Depart Phnom Penh this morning around 7 a.m. as you head to the far east of Cambodia and the province of Mondulkiri. Travel time will be 7-8 hours including stops en route.

Exiting Phnom Penh a ferry is taken across the Mekong River to get onto quieter countryside roads. There is occasional waiting time for the ferry to cross back and time can be spent wandering the local market of Psar Svai Tom where tourists are unknown. After the short crossing the road is unpaved but after a short while changes to a smooth new road which takes you all the way to Sen Monorom. As you head further away from Phnom Penh the scenery turns greener, the red soil is very fertile and agriculture dominates – cassava, pepper, durian and rubber plantations that look more commonplace in Europe than in Cambodia. Stops can be made to learn how rubber trees produce their milky, white sap or latex as it is better known and also to visit a peppercorn plantation.

Lunch is taken at a local restaurant before continuing to Mondulkiri province passing more rubber plantations and parallel to Seima Protected Forest. Approximately 150 wild elephants roam the forest and the neighbouring valleys. On reaching Sen Monorom check into your hotel.

Mondulkiri is home to the Phnong indigenous tribe who speak their own native language. In fact there is no written version of Phnong. Whilst Khmer language is slowly making inroads into the society most of the older tribe’s folk only speak Phnong. The villages have changed little with time and traditions still last in Mondulkiri. Besides the Phnong, Mondulkiri is also home to beautiful hilly scenery, elephants and varied birdlife.  

Late afternoon visit Sen Monorom Waterfall, a picturesque location where bathing is possible or you can take a rest after the journey to Cambodia’s eastern province. The waterfall is about 8m high and a few metres wide depending on the time of year – as with many cascades after the rainy season is the best time to visit.

Overnight in Sen Monorom

Phnom Penh – Mondulkiri (375 km): 7hrs 30mins

Breakfast at your hotel.

Begin the day with a visit to Pulung village – home to the Phnong indigenous community. A local guide will explain the culture and way of life for his tribe. It is usually possible to enter a local home to see how people cook and live under the thatched roofs or slightly more modern wood houses that are built on the ground, quite unlike most Cambodian homes that are built on stilts to avoid floods. The Phnong have a special relationship with forests and elephants who they deeply respect. Elephant treks amongst the villages are available though are not recommended as a natural experience for elephants and may in some circumstances be cruel to the animals. A local Phnong guide will help your interaction with the indigenous people.

From Pulung it is time for some exercise on a trail rated easy to moderate. The distance is 8km through the valley and up and down small hills to reach a pretty waterfall before following the trail to the main road. From there it is a 30 minute drive to Bou Sra Waterfall.

Bou Sraa is a particularly scenic two-tier waterfall and the largest in Cambodia. Cascading some 10m on the first tier and 25m on the second the waterfall is a popular spot for local tourists and the handful of westerners that reach this area. Enjoy a simple local lunch on picnic mats with views of the waterfall. The adventurous may want to try a short trek up to the upper level of the waterfall (access depending on the time of year).

After lunch drive back towards Sen Monorom and stop at a coffee plantation. Enjoy a cup of fresh coffee and walk through the plantation.

The final stop of the day is a hilltop known for its view of the ‘Sea Forest’. As you stand on the top of the hill and look across the rolling hills it really does appear you are ‘all at sea’ with the hills appearing like waves! Enjoy sunset from the hill before returning to your hotel.

Overnight in Sen Monorom

Trekking distance: 8km

This morning head to the Elephant Valley Project, or ELIE as it is also known, outside 30 minutes drive outside of Sen Monorom. ELIE is an an ecotourism project that provides an alternative approach to elephant care, rehabilitation and conservation and registered as an NGO. The focus is on letting elephants by themselves and is no riding of elephants is permitted.

After an introductory briefing descend to the valley and find the elephants grazing or bathing and being themselves. Many of the 12 or so elephants at the project were maltreated and rescued from tourist-related enterprises in Cambodia whilst others the Phnong mahouts are not able to take care of their animals and stay at the project in order that the elephants receive better care.

A normal day considers of observing the animals in the morning, an extended lunch break followed by an afternoon with the elephants in an alternative location. It is the opportunity to learn about their stories and what is required to make to take care of them and nurse them back to health and being a real elephant and not one trained to carry humans on its back for entertainment. The location is very relaxing as you wander up and down small hills, into the valley and along streams and is suitable for anyone with good mobility. (Note: a visit to the ELIE project is only possible Mon-Fri. At the weekend the elephants head off to a distant site to relax, eat bamboo and no visits are possible. Volunteer work is possible either as part of a full day visit or longer stays including overnight. However accommodation at ELIE can only be confirmed one month prior to travel as it is reserved for long-term volunteers as priority.)

Overnight in Sen Monorom

After an early breakfast depart for Phnom Penh (or your next destination). Travel time will be 7-8 hours to the capital including stops en route.

On the way out of Mondulkiri pay a visit to the village of Putang, another Phnong village where your guide can further explain traditions. Keep an eye out for the large jars used to brew traditional Phnong rice wine.  A local Phnong guide will help your interaction with the indigenous people.

The first 200km repeats the journey from Day 1 before continuing on National Highway 7. A rubber factory is visited outside of the town of Chub with the opportunity to learn about the various stages of production. After continue the short distance to the town of Kampong Cham for lunch at a local restaurant.

Continue to Phnom Penh (or head further north) with an optional visit of the Skuon market. A favourite snack of many Cambodians many buses and pick-ups stop at the market to buy a bag of the ch’ngain (tasty) eight-legged creatures. The spiders are caught in the soft ground of the surrounding countryside and dug out of their burrows.

Arrive into Phnom Penh in the late afternoon

Mondulkiri – Phnom Penh (375 km): 7hrs 30mins